Wednesday, 21 January 2026

by the seti gorge : takes you back in time

about 750 years ago, either due to tectonic movement, or other wear and tear reasons, a huge chunk of the western flank of what is now known as annapurna 4 himal, broke off and plunged into the glacier below.  the resultant debris flow, as well as those in earlier and later centuries, gave pokhara valley its unique feature of sediment terraces, lakes, canyons, gorges, caves and enormous rocks strewn all over the valley floor...

one just has to look at pokhara's unique terraced gorges with its ubiquitous layers of pebbles, gravel, rocks, conglomerates, sand and silt to imagine what might have happened in these valleys centuries ago. how swathes of debris flow from the base of the himals, some 100 m deep, fanned through the valleys downstream blocking off rivers and rivulets and initiated the formation of numerous lakes in those valleys... how the seti river kept cutting through those layers of comparatively softer layers into those terraced canyons... and how, hitting the harder bedrock, got channeled into narrow gorges ... gorges so narrow that the roar of the river can be heard from bridges than span them, but cannot be seen... gorges where the rivers have carved unexplored underwater caverns...

sungava apartment in phulbari in pokhara lies on the terraces above the bend of the seti river, when it exits from a gorge in the north then makes a 's' turn to enter an0ther gorge below the yellow bridge. so exploring the river, the canyon, and the gorge is very accessible.  the photos below are ones i took in early january 2026 from the bend before the seti gets swallowed into a deep gorge.


the layers -- from annapurna 2 in the background, kahun danda in the foreground, sungava apartment in its foothills, and two terraces below, the seti riverside...



...200 steps takes you down to the riverside...

...a lot of sand collects in the riverside when the mouth of the gorge gets temporarily blocked with flood debris...

...many creatures leave their mark on the fine sand...

...boulders and rocks brought down by the river down the ages litter the riverbank...

.. the other bank... and a burning ghat a bit further on the left...

...this huge rock near the mouth of the gorge bears marks of where various flood waters reached...

... looking southwards to the mouth of the gorge underneath the yellow bridge of nadipur...

.. the seti tumbling over rocks near the gorge...

...churning and frothing...

...pebbles left behind by high waters...

...centuries-old flood debris hardened into conglomerate, and contoured by the seti...

...silt, sand, grit and pebbles... solidified due to pressure and time...

...the canyon narrows into a gorge carved by the seti...


... sideways view of the water entering the gorge ...

... closer...

... and even closer...

...the depth of the gorge cut by the seti down hundreds of years... the early on layers must have been eroded easily... and as the sediment solidified and hardened  seti must be facing a tougher job now...


... along the canyon walls where the grass and undergrowth have been shorn away... one can see layers of sediments that have flowed down from the himals.. rocks, silt, pebbles...

... a closer look...

...on the other side of the canyon there is more vegetation on the cliffs...

... and below it, calcium rich sediment gives a snow-like cover on rocks...


...blackening machhapucchre in the backdrop... and cremation ground beyond the bend of the seti... and a huge, layered and 'autographed' rock in the foreground...

... another interesting, layered rock by the seti's bank...

... sand and boulders dumped by the seti on the other bank...

... the gorge from above... from the yellow bridge...

...what happened and shaped pokhara valley, could happen again, say the scientists, anywhere else in the himalayan belt, linked with tectonic shifts, or with natural weathering and melting of permafrost.... we, living in the beautiful, yet fragile environment, need to be aware and prepare ourselves and future generations... and nowhere can the message be taken home clearer than by the banks of the seti river... by the seti gorge!

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Sunday, 30 November 2025

a bird's eye view of paddy harvest

these are pictures i took for about 10 days from our 7th floor balcony of paddy harvesting activities in the fields below. from cutting, drying, heaping, threshing, winnowing, packing, to readying the fields for next plantation. busy busy women and men, and a bit of fun for the children. 

when we'd arrived in pokhara, it was after october's tihar deluge that had ruined a lot of ready to harvest paddy in many parts of the country. farmers in pokhara seemed lucky in that the rains had not harmed the crops too much.

this is the general view of the fields that i zoomed in on from above...
in some of the fields where the paddy had not been cut, most were still standing...
... there were only a few patches where the paddy had bowed down due to their  weighty ears...
... elsewhere women were busy cutting the stalks of paddy and lining them in neat rows to dry them up a bit ... 


...rows upon rows of paddy sunning themselves up...

... those who had started early had already marked out the area for threshing the paddy...
... in a day or two, the paddy was bunched up ...
... gathered into bales...
... and carried over the stubbled field...
... to a paddy stack (no, not yet haystack!)

... the finished paddy stacks...

... larger fields had two stacks...
... a movie hoarding flex was turned to protective gear for an unfinished stack...

... meanwhile women were busy removing stubble nearby to prepare the threshing ground...
... the ground was levelled...
.. and then plastered with mud and cow dung (said to have anti bacterial properties)...

.. and the ground is then ready for the next step...
... a flurry of 'speeded-up' activities by men in threshing the paddy in the bigger field...

... in the smaller field the bales were then carried in small bundles for threshing...
... on a rock in the middle of the cleared area...

... the paddy was then winnowed ...
... the cleaned up grain were then filled into sacks and taken for storage...

... the hay put away to the side made great rest area for the adults and play area for the children...



... while some of the hay was carried as cow feed in the neighbourhood...
... the rest were loaded onto tractors...
... and driven away ...

... any remnant grain on the ground were gathered and whisked...
... in the evening any remaining husk, hay, and other leftovers were burnt...
... time to prepare for the next set of crops... the first was to  reload organic fertiliser into the soil. it meant carrying the manure...
... unloading them...
... all over the field...
... and then scattering them...
... next came the tiller tractors... going from field to field in the area...

... then the women turned the sod around...
... and the next morning the tractor came back to smoothen out the field...
... time for digging the field into furrows...

... and planting potatoes...

... to be continued for the next harvest perhaps ???