Showing posts with label himalaya. Show all posts
Showing posts with label himalaya. Show all posts

Saturday, 5 July 2025

the annapurna himalaya during monsoon break

nepal is at her best  when the monsoon rains take a break; when the clouds part revealing smogless crystal clear blue skies; when the leaves glisten green, washed off of all the grime; when the mountains and himals play hide and seek with clouds... flirting with them, actually, just the way i like the himalaya!
i took these pictures from my samsung phone and my nikon coolpix camera last week when i was in phulbari, pokhara. and there are also a couple of pictures i took earlier -one slightly-hazy morning - in late april

the day i arrived the mountains were covered up in grey rain-shedding clouds...

... as the day  wore on, the clouds thinned out a bit ...

... early next morning the foothills of the annapurna himals were visible...

.. a while later, when the sun's rays hit the himals.. seen here between the slits in the clouds...


...for the few days that i was in pokhara,  watching the sunrays kissing the mountain tops
was a treat...

...the peak of annapurna 3...


... machhapuchhre was still not ready to lift her cloudy veil...

.. as the mornings wore on, more of the himals could be seen... from annapurna south in the left, to annapurna 1 and annapurna 3... (annapurna 4 and 2 hidden by kahun danda (hill))

... annapurna dakshin south (7219m) and hiunchuli himal (6441m)...

... the steep slopes of annapurna 1  (8091 m)  behind the thin  veil of clouds...

... annapurna 3  (7555m) also being teased by clouds...



the jagged fanged ridges of annapurna 3 were clearer in early morning sunrise photos that i had taken earlier in april ...


 
... machhapuchhre (6991m) finally makes a show, although from this angle its iconic fishtail peak, which  gives the himal her name, is not visible...

one day  was clearer than most others... when the clouds decided to take some rest  for a while.. letting the silver peaks and the green hills have their dose of sunshine...

... annapurna south, hiunchuli and annapurna 1...

... "enough!" the clouds seem to say, "it is still monsoon!"...

.. the pictures below are closeups taken from my  camera.. showing the details of the rocks, ice and snow that make up the himalaya...

...the rounded top of hiunchuli himal...

... bits of annapurna south...

... just a bit further north, and two months earlier,  is this snowy top in early morning light...

... further north are the annapurna 1 peaks...

... the fluted steep slopes of annapurna 1...

... the same ridge cast in early morning golden glow in april ...


.. and a sneak peek of annapurna 4 (7525m)... a himal that seems to have been truncated by a couple of hundred metres due to seismic activity... the resultant debris flow gave pokhara valley its unique feature of lakes, canyons, gorges, caves and enormous rocks strewn all over the valley floor...

annapurnas in the backdrop of the seti river gorge... which down the centuries has been cutting through the debris left by the himalayan outburst, through a series of gorges and open canyons... the seti still washes down the milky sediments left by the catastrophe and which gives the river its name seti (white (female))...

just a few hundred metres away from this gorge is the canyon formed by the kali khola (black river).. one without the sediment from the base of annapurna 4...

... and now some images of 'shy' machhapuchhre's various moods... the rains had dusted it with snow, unlike the black himal that people saw during the rainless past winter ...







... and this one, again, taken in a hazy morning two months back...

... the green green hills.. with annapurna south in the backdrop...

... the white annapurnas.. . blue hills ... and green trees...

.. and all of these views... of the hills, the forests, the himals, the clouds ... from the balcony of our sungava apartment... accompanied by the soothing notes of the wind chime... aah! 

...iti...

Tuesday, 11 June 2024

From Above Kali Gandaki Gorge

In the first week of June 2024, we drove up the Mustang to perform religious rituals at Kagbeni, the confluence of Mustang Khola and Kagkhola which then become the Kali Gandaki River. What used to be a trekking route to Mustang has now been overtaken by a motorable road that is being upgraded rapidly.  

The best part about the drive northwards along the Kali Gandaki River is to witness tell-tale signs in the hillsides, the cliffs, the rivers of the birthing process of the Himalaya and the layers of lesser mountains to the south. Of course a lot of those evidence at eye level have been carved away while widening the roads. But it is still awe-inspiring to travel alongside a river that has been carving its way down the ever rising mountains following the collision of the Indo-Australian and Eurasian tectonic plates about 40 million years ago.

At Dana of Myagdi district the Kali Gandaki squeezes through a very narrow channel called अन्ध गल्छी (Andh Galchhi).  The river writhes its way down a narrow curvaceous gorge, said to be the deepest gorge in the world flanked by the 8K Himalayan peaks of Dhaulagiri (8167m) and Annapurna 1 (8091m). As the crow flies, these two peaks are just 35 km apart, and the gorge is about 5000m below them.  

There is a suspension bridge these days over the narrowest portion of the gorge, giving a spectacular experience of sight and sound, as well as the awe about the origins of the land around.  As you see the roaring waters below, you cannot but think about the landmasses that collided, went under, crumpled up, drained the Tethys Sea, and rose up in folds, lifting up the marine sediment in the process ( a reason one finds fossils in the Kali Gandaki river bed in Mustang).  

Exact location of the gorge as per Google map👇


https://maps.app.goo.gl/v6aYJZ3namwiWZoD9

When you arrive at the spot it is hard to make out where the river is! What guides you is its relentless roar


Once you step on the bridge, though, the river appears.  Looking northwards one also notices the steep cliff through which the road is being carved.  (Wish they would not dump the excavated rocks down the gorge, as reported by the locals)...

In this clip, looking northwards,  you get a sense of the depth of the gorge, knowing there are steeper slopes beyond...

The clip below is looking southwards from the bridge, and the road that has been cut with difficulty into the cliff

How many years has it taken for the Kali Gandaki to carve it's way down here? The  land is  said to be pushing and rising 5 cm a year 

The mighty Kali Gandaki as seen from the suspension bridge

Looking northwards into the high Himalayan foothills

The river chugs along carving huge boulders in the way...

... as well as the sides of the gorge...

.. it spills over rocks... 

.. Right below the bridge the river almost disappears... this is the northern side of the bridge...

... and this is the southern side...

this is the point where the river drops down over a rapid.. and what gives the roaring sound magnified even more by hollow caverns...

Rocky cliffs have been chiseled by the river into wavy patterns...



... looking even closer at the rocks...



... nature's beautiful artwork...


... And finally.. looking southwards.. and the river frees itself from the constricting gorge.. and winds it way across the mountains and valleys.  It will be  meeting and greeting other smaller rivers before merging with Trisuli at Devighat to become Narayani and then to be known as Gandak across the border in India.

 Leaving the Andh Galchhi behind we then headed northwards to Mustang... along a cliff that had been carved by Kali Gandaki before and now further cut away  by humans!

more from the trip in my next blog...

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